Back in the Saddle Again!Back in the Saddle Again!

Back in the Saddle Again!

(Click on any photo to enlarge)

Mistress is up and running wild again with new front wheel bearings.  A week and a half after getting most of damage repaired from our spill I started noticing a slight roaring sound from the left front that got louder at highway speeds while taking corners to the left. So, remembering my son Jake’s run in with a front wheel bearing locking up on him, fortunately he was going slowly at the time, I decided to play it safe and parked her.  That is, until I could save up enough money to purchase the wheel bearing kit and also clean my stuffed garage so I would have room to operate on her.

The wheel bearing kit was not expensive and I ordered it online. I found a good deal on amazon.com for an "All Balls Street Wheel Bearing Kit - Front 25-1448" for the low-low price of $24.53 which included shipping. The kit arrived in about a week. Now I just needed to get that blasted garage cleaned up…

I also was reacquainted with an old co-worker, Craig Whitlock, an avid Honda VTX 1800 rider. I also worked with Craig’s father-in-law, the late Great Danny Evans who passed away over a year ago from cancer. He was also a Honda VTX 1800 Rider. I remembered he used to make metal tubular lever motorcycle lifts to sell. So, I asked Craig if he had any of them still lying around and low-and-behold I had two of them the next day, one for my son and one for me. Several months later I got the garage halfway cleaned up with enough room to work on the voluptuous V-Star 1100 Classic.

So, now it was time to get to work on the bike. The first thing I did was head over to the V-Star 1100 Riders Knowledge Base and perused the several repair manuals on how to replace the front wheel bearings. If you own a V-Star, you need to have access to this treasure trove and the V-Star 100 Forum. After that I got Johnny, one of my boys, (I have one daughter and five boys), to support the bike while I lifted it up using the tubular bike lift.

The tubular bike lift Danny made was an ingenious design. It uses leverage to lift the bike up and support it from underneath on the bottom frame. It consisted of two tubes held together in a rectangle with the front bar that does the actual lifting covered in a piece of rubber so as to not mar up your bikes frame. Attached to the left front corner is the long handle which supplies the leverage to lift the bike and the ground support to hold it in place when pulled and lowered to the ground. The end of the bar is slightly cantilevered so you don’t smash your fingers when lowering and make it easier to grab ahold of when ready to lift it up to lower the bike. There is a small piece of rectangular metal reinforcement from the lower bars to the handle to help handle the stress. The whole thing is painted and the open bar ends are capped off to make it complete. This lift worked like a charm.

The next step is to remove the wheel. First, block off the brake lever so no one accidently pulls it while the brake calipers are off. I used and electrical outlet expander. Remove both side front brake caliper bottom bolt and loosen the upper all the way. The reflectors are in the way of taking the bolts all the way out, but allow the bolts to be backed out far enough to remove the calipers.

Once the brake calipers are free, remove the pinch bolt from the bottom of the right front fork. Next remove the axle bolt. Note: this bolt is real tight and I used a large breaker bar to break it loose.  After removing the axle bolt the wheel can drop free. Depending on how high off the ground the front of the bike is will depend on how hard it is to wrestle from between the forks and fender. The two collar spacers may fall out, if not they can be removed at this time by simply pulling them out.



Once the wheel is removed be sure not to lay the wheel directly on anything that will put pressure on the brake rotors.  I used and old plastic square milk box to set mine on and it fit perfectly. The rubber axle seals can now be removed simply using a screwdriver. The next step requires a special tool to remove the old bearings.

The old wheel bearings have to be pulled from the center of the wheel using a Blind Hole Bearing Puller. Not having one of those I waited until my son Jake had a free Saturday morning to help me, since I did not have enough dough to cover the deposit on the tool kit. We barrowed tool kit free from AutoZone using his debit/credit card. Note, when we returned the tool kit they will only give you cash back, not credit the card back.

The Dead Hole Bearing puller tool worked well. You put the clawed grabbing end inside to just below the bearing and tighten it up spreading the claws behind the bearing. Next you attach the slide hammer like part to the top and slam it up until is slowly extracts the bearing from the wheel. Now you can remove the center collar that sets between the two bearings. Flip the tire over and do it again on the other bearing.

Next just clean all the parts that are re-used with something. I used brake cleaner and an old t-shirt rag. We packed some more wheel-bearing grease around the new bearings and put a light coating on everything else. After everything is cleaned up, dried and lubed you put it all back together in reverse order using the new bearings and seals of course.

The new wheel bearings have to be pressed back into the wheel. We used a piece of flat steel and hammered the bearing until it was flush. Then searched all over the garage until I found a round part made of metal that was just the right size of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing down until it seated. After flipping the wheel over re-insert the center collar and press the other bearing in occasionally running the axle bolt through to make sure the center collar is aligned and centered properly.

Next install the new grease seals. They just press in by hand. Now the two collar spacers can be inserted into the grease seals and the tire reinstalled back on the forks. Torque down the axle bolt and reinstall the pinch bolt. Install the brake calipers and remove the brake lever block.

While I was working on her I also tried to make some adjustments to the foot-heel shifter pivot which I think got tweaked in the wreck. Lastly, I cleaned the left front turn signal bulb socket which corrosion was causing a fast blink. Viola, she was ready to ride.

he fired right up, because I had kept her on a trickle charger, and I immediately took a short test ride up and down the freeway to make sure everything was working properly, and it was. Ahhh, the joy of ridin'...

This post dedicated to the late Great Danny Evans: May 3, 1958 - January 2, 2010 – RIP

Ride on,

Torch

Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mount Review

Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mount Review

One of the first modifications I did to my V-Star 1100 Classic “Mistress” was to add some front pegs. At 6’2” I needed a way to stretch out my legs on longer rides. I had really wanted to get some Lindby Custom Linbars, still do, but funds were not available. So I started looking at front pegs to add to my bike to stretch out and rest my tired dogs on.

In researching for front pegs I decided I wanted some that could be folded up out of the way when not in use, rather than the stationary kind. Looking online I ran across the Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mounts on the Kuryakyn website. I think I looked there because several other add-ons on my V-Star were from Kuryakyn. I honestly don’t remember where I ordered them from, but I ordered them online from an online store that had a good price. They arrived safely packed in foam peanuts several days after they were ordered.

The Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mounts measure 4 ½” long and have a 1 ¼” offset which allows the reach adjustment to be fine tuned for the rider. The metal is really stout and fully chromed. Another feature I really liked was that the actual foot landing pad is thicker on these pegs, not being just a post. This gives the foot more purchase area. The pad is also equipped with floating rubber grip strips. These peg mounts allow for the peg to be folded up when not in use.

Installation is straight forward and required no special tools, just normal SAE sockets or wrenches most folks have in their garage. Here we go again with SAE nuts and bolts for a metric bike. I mounted them right onto the front frame down-tubes. They have to be mounted high enough up that they do not interfere with the operation of the rear brake pedal on the right side and the shifter on the left. Do not forget to use the included locking washers.

The hardest part about installation is getting them mounted evenly from side to side on height and angle. You also have to tighten the bolt at the pivoting point to the right tension so that they will stay up when put up. It probably took less than an hour to install them.

Having an extra place to put your feet on long ride is well worth it. With my backrest on the Corbin seat and my feet up I feel like I am riding a recliner down the freeway. You can use the pegs with the toe or heel of your shoe or boot. Alternatively, you can just rest the whole back of your foot up on top of the peg. This gives you multiple choices on long rides when you need to move around for comfort.

I have not had any issues with the Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mounts. I will warn you Chromaholics that it is painstaking to clean the tops of the pegs between the rubber traction inserts. I have found the easiest way is to use the very edge of a soft cleaning towel. You have to go back and forth like you are shining shoes, between the rubber inserts. Torch gives the Kuryakyn X-Tension Highway Peg Mounts a M.M.M. rating of 9.5.

Ride on,
Torch

Attack of the U.F.M.

Attack of the U.F.M.

It all started on a sleepy autumn morning. I rode to work early, usually getting up around 4:30 – 4:40 am and left around 5:00 – 5:10 am. Needless to say I’m usually only partially awake at that time in the morning. I don my leathers and head out to the garage.

I opened the garage door and backed Mistress, my V-Star1100 Classic, out and got the rest of my gear on, gloves, face mask, clear riding glasses, and half helmet. I tucked my lunch inside my right saddlebag. It was cold enough outside that I had trouble keeping the glasses from fogging up when I breathed out my nose. I closed the garage door and proceeded to start the bike.

First I turned the ignition key all the way on. I made sure the choke, (fuel enrichment knob), was turned all the way on. Then, I made sure the fuel cut off valve was turned down to the on position remembering that if I do not turn the fuel knob back on, I will not make it out of my neighborhood with out running out of fuel and stalling the bike. Don’t ask me how I know. I pressed the cut of switch to the run position and hit the start button.

Mistress’s 1100 V-Twin roared to life. With the Cobra exhaust, you can bet my neighbors know when I leave in the morning. I slid the fuel enrichment knob, (works like a choke), over to idle her down some and headed carefully out of my driveway onto the dark, damp streets.

It was a cold, dark and foggy Monday morning. I turned out of my neighbor hood and headed eastbound on Cheek Sparger Road. I straightened out from the turn and started to accelerate. Just then, I caught some movement just barely visible at the far reaches of the headlamp and riding lights off the side of the road. At first I didn’t pay to much attention to it, thinking it’s probably just a rabbit on the side of the road hopping around.

Then I noticed the anomaly is headed perpendicularly to my track on the road and will cross right in front of me. That’s when I spotted the glowing white beady eyes of this creature fixated on my Mistress and myself, reflected from the lights. As I got closer I could make out its size. It was larger than an alley cat and more like the size of a small dog. Now I could make out some large teeth and huge fangs in a pointy snout and large whiskers with foam trailing out the corners of its mouth.

Just then I realized what the Unidentified Flying Marsupial was. It was a very angry opossum running at full gallop across the road and headed straight for me. It looked like it was out for blood. For all I knew it could be rabid. I raised the angle on my right wrist and Mistress responded by slowing down some, both of us hoping to throw the attackers timing off. I just new it was going to either try to get up underneath my front tire and knock me off my bike or just jump straight up for a death grip on my throat.

My change in speed to throw off the timing ploy did not work. My next tactic was to aim my V-Star 1100 right at it. Mistress nodded in agreement. The logic in this approach was that, if I tried to hit a moving target, more than likely I would fail. The gargantuan opossum was at a full out run and just fixing to spring at me, its claws glistened in the riding lamps, when its head hit my front tire. It made a hollow thump type sound.

At this point neither one of us could adjust the momentum we had built up. The killer slid underneath the path of the bike. I could feel the rear of the bike lift up as the rear tire ran over the marsupials head. I knew it was its head because if it had been its body the back end of the motorcycle would have bounced up a lot higher.

In a flash it was over. Mistress and I had thwarted a deadly attack from a killer opossum and barely survived. I tried to glance back behind me and saw nothing on the roadway. But it was foggy and dark so I might not have been able to see it. I called my wife when I got to work and asked her if she had seen anything in the road, she leaves for work right after me, she had not. I looked closely again at the scene of the assault on my way home and saw nothing. The Attacker had made a clean get away.

Opossums are the other brown meat and tastes like chicken, I would imagine. Otherwise, they can be just another large, rodent looking, Unidentified Flying Marsupial obstacle in the road. Most of the time, you only get to see them with their little feet sticking up stiffly. Yep, they are just another obstacle you have to watch out for while riding a motorcycle in the Texas suburbs.
What is the moral of this story? Be prepared at any time, any place, and any conditions to react to changes in road conditions or obstacles in your path. Also remember, not all obstacles hold still for you. Sometimes obstacles have a mind of their own.

Ride on,
Torch

A Tale Of Two Batteries

A Tale of Two Batteries

Mistress, my ’03 V-Star was whispering in my ear. Not literally of course, but she had been getting a little slower to crank in the morning. Being in the automotive industry I recognized the symptoms. The battery was getting weak. Being the professional procrastinator that I am, I ignored her. I did start plugging her into the Battery Tender Jr. on the weekends to make sure she would start for Monday morning commutes.

Then finally it happened one day after work. It went down on a day a cold front had blown in. I went out, hopped on her and hit the start button. Nothing happened. She whispered, “I told you...” I pondered my predicament a few minutes and called my wife to send one of the boys to come pick me up in our ’98 Ford Explorer. That was embarrassing. All leathered up and my bike just wouldn’t budge. I could have jumped her off but it was just much easier to call for a ride.

The next morning I grabbed an extension cord and my Battery Tender and had my wife drop me off. Fortunately, my workplace was on her way anyway. I connected her up to let the battery be tended to and came back on lunch break to see if she would start. She did. I left the tender on until I got off work. After work the mighty 100 V-Twin roared to life and I was headed home.

OK, here is the dumb part. Any smart individual would have checked the electrical system out and/or replaced the battery then. I have never claimed to be smart. I just left it on the Battery Tender all the time at home now. I milked that old battery along like that for another month to a month and a half. I had no idea how old that battery was or how long it had been in my V-Star.

Then it happened again. It was my night to work late and a cold one at that. I got bundled up to go home and, “Click”, nothing. Another phone call and another ride home in a cage.
The next morning I repeated the battery tender procedure and rode her home. I was determined to get another battery this time.

The first place I referenced about V-Star 1100 batteries was the V-Star 1100 Riders Knowledge Base. The Knowledge Base has a wealth of information and answers to just about any question V-Star related, including some questions that haven’t even been asked yet. It had a whole section on batteries. I read you could get a larger size battery that would fit. The stock battery on a V-Star is the YT14-B4 rated at 12 Amp Hours and 135 Cold Cranking Amps. A good replacement for it is the YT14-BS rated at 12 Amp Hours and 200 Cold Cranking Amps and is only 11/16” wider. That sounded like what I wanted, so I started searching for one. Somehow I overlooked the, “Batteries Plus (local source) - $49.99 -Charlottesville, Va on 2/6/06”, Partly because I had never heard of them.

I found what I was looking for at CBXMAN Motorcycles. It was a Binetto YTX14-BS High Performance AGM ATV/Motorcycle Battery. I ordered it and a balaclava and waited patiently. CBXMAN shipped my order right out and I was able to watch the shipping progress online at the shipping companies web site.
The order arrived a week later and I opened the package and removed the instructions for the battery. The Binetto battery came with very vague and sparse directions. What’s a guy to do with out pictures? They ship the battery dry and you have to install the acid and charge the battery before use. I decided to wait until Saturday afternoon to install the battery. I was scheduled to work a half day and would do it after lunch.

Saturday afternoon came around and I figured out how to open all the battery acid vials and pour them simultaneously into the six separate openings. When all the acid was in I hooked it up to my Battery Tender Jr. After it had charged for a while I topped it off with a little water. This turned out to be a mistake later on. I know, I know, you are supposed to use distilled water anyway. When the Battery Tender’s light turned green I knew it was time to install it on the bike.

Battery replacement on a V-Star is fairly simple. Remove the battery cover by unscrewing it’s hex bolt, unfasten the rubber strap that holds the battery in from the bottom, disconnect the negative battery cable and any other grounding cables attached to the negative post, then remove the positive cable and any other power cables attached to the positive post.

Installation is the exact reverse. I noticed that the Binetto battery posts were not that great of quality. The posts set too low in the battery. This made it hard to install round terminals on the front side of the post without distorting or bending the eyelets. The battery did fit fine into the battery opening space on the bike. However, the battery on a V-Star does not fit level; it sets at an angle with the right side, the negative side, higher than the left. This is where the topping off of the battery became a problem. All the excess acid when the battery was tilted came out he vent hole. I had to keep hosing it off the bike with the garden hose to keep the acid off the bike.

I got the motorcycle all put back together and tested the battery by starting the bike and it started up with no squabbles. I gave her a quick bath and ran her down to the gas station for a quick feeding. It started and ran fine for one week and then the dreaded no crank happened once again, this time in the morning before my ride to work. On top of that one of my garage door hinges had broken and I had to leave her outside until I could repair the garage door.

A few days later I went back the V-Star 1100 Riders Knowledge Base and printed out the PDF files on how to check the rectifier-regulator and stator in the charging system. I did al the checks and everything on the motorcycle passed the tests. I came to the conclusion that my new Binetto battery was defective. A coworker and fellow rider, Danny heard of my predicament and suggested a store near his home called Batteries Plus.

I called a local Interstate battery store and they had one but it was another one that you had to add the acid too, or “acis” as the typo on there website says. The Interstate battery was pretty pricey also and I believe it only came with a six month warranty.

Next I called Batteries Plus on Davis Boulevard in North Richland Hills Texas. I spoke with Robert, a helpful and knowledgeable counter person, who checked to see if they had an Xtreme battery in stock the size I needed. They did not have one but they would have a stock order of them in a couple of days. I asked if they were a sealed battery and he said they were. Then Robert checked to see if they had an X2-14 Xtreme battery the size I wanted in stock. They did have one. However, they did cost a little more. He explained that the X2 battery comes with a two year warranty instead of just one. I told him I would be by after work to pick one up. Browsing around their website I found a ten percent off coupon.

I also fired off an email inquiry to Yamaha Suzuki of Texas in Hurst from their website about the cost and availability of a battery, which they have not responded to, to this day.

After work I headed straight to Batteries Plus and met Robert. He grabbed the battery off the shelf for me, it was on display, put it back in its box making sure all of the hardware was there. It came with two height adapters and two spacers and bolts for side mount cable installations. I presented my 10% off coupon and Robert said they have a 20% off coupon that comes out in the paper and he would give that to me. I was not just pleasantly surprised; I was shocked at the offer and his dedication to customer service. Trust me; I will refer anyone looking for a battery for anything to check out Batteries Plus. If you live in the D/FW area, see Robert at the North Richland Hills location.

Here is the X2-14 Xtreme Battery description from the Batteries Plus website:

Choose an X2 battery to keep you powered. Designed for the vibration in an ATV and the endurance of a touring bike. X2 batteries offer the best features; fully sealed - maintenance free, pure calcium-lead plate design for increased power, easy to install with front mount threaded terminals and extended reserve power for more accessories. Backed by a full 24 month warranty, the X2 is the perfomance battery you have been seeking. The X2-14 has specific dimensions of 5.88" x 3.44" x 5.75".

I went home and installed it that evening. (The Binetto battery would not even crank the V-Star over after being on the Battery Tender for nearly a week now.) The installation of the X2 was much easier. The whole battery had a more professional fit and finish. The posts had plenty of clearance for the terminals and the height adapters, spacers and bolts were not needed on the V-Star installation. I did not even have to charge the battery to start the bike, it came fully charged.

The failure of the Binetto battery may have been caused by me and its lack of clear directions, I do not know. It was an expensive lesson to learn. There are some things that it is just better to purchase locally rather than online. And, you get what you pay for; some things are inexpensive for a reason. My Mistress has not been complaining to me since the X2 Xtreme Battery was put in several weeks ago and she has been starting every time I ask. On a scale of 1-10, Torch gives the X2 a M.M.M. Rating of 9.5.

Ride on,
Torch

Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn Installation & Review

Alternate Title: Torch’s First V-Star Mod/Upgrade

Before I started using my ’03 Yamaha V-Star 1100, I wanted to give her a good "T-CLOCS" inspection. I learned about the "T-Clocks" pre-ride checklist when I took the Motorcycle Safety Foundations Basic Riders Course. You can download your own "T-CLOCS" checklist to print and use here.

"T-CLOCS" Stands for:

T-Tires & Wheels
C-Controls
L-Lights
O-Oil
C-Chassis
S-Stands

While performing this inspection I noticed what I feel is a shocking omission on the MSF’s pre-ride inspection list. I could not find the horn listed anywhere. I even used the PDF file document search and it came up empty, so I knew it was not just my oversight. If you use their list I suggest adding, "Horn if equipped," under the lighting or control section.

So, I performed my "T-CLOCS" pre-ride inspection and hit the horn button. Mistress, (my nickname for the motorcycle,) let out a soft, timid "meep" sound. I laughed out loud. Then I remembered a real humorous thread on the V-Star 1100 Riders Forum about the 1100’s apathetic Original Equipment Model horn. Someone on the forum actually coined the sound that the OEM horn makes on a V-Star as "meep". I did not think much more about it at the time.

After commuting to work for a couple of weeks in stop and go D/FW traffic, I had to opportunity to use the horn. It was the classic cage changing into my lane without looking. For those who do not know, a cage was a vehicle driving on four or more wheels. I hit the horn button on this big, bad, Yamaha, V-Star, 1100cc monster of a bike I was riding and it responded with the anemic "meep" sound. I’m not sure the sound was even audible over all the traffic noise. I could sense the other drivers around me laughing. I knew then it was time to change out the OEM horn. It had, in fact, become the first thing that I wanted to change on the bike.

Not long after that I found myself in the local Pep Boys Auto store looking at replacement horns. I saw the Fiamm Freeway Blasters and grabbed a Low Note Horn. I figured the low note would give a larger sound, which was definitely what I wanted. I got home and read the simplistic directions. I also referenced the V-Star 1100 Riders Knowledge Base in the Horn section. It appeared that it was pretty much plug-n-play. Always remember, appearances can be deceiving. Your mileage may very, as they say.

I went to the garage and started the install. The first thing was to remove the pathetic OEM horn. It had only one bolt attaching it to the upper frame between the down tubes. Once unbolted, I pulled the electrical connector off the OEM horn and it was now off the bike. That part was easy enough.

I then compared the two horns. There were a couple differences. One was that the Fiamm Freeway Blaster wiring connectors were a lot farther apart than the OEM horn connector. I thought about this dilemma and decided I could do one of two things. I could cut the OEM plastic connector in half down the middle, or fabricate a jumper harness using spade lugs and wire. I reached for my favorite knife clipped in my left front pocket and carefully cut the wiring connector in two. My favorite knife was a Kershaw Leek Speed-Safe Assisted Opening Knife my wife had given to me for Christmas. I figured it would be less obtrusive than reaching into my right front pocket and pulling out my Kel-Tec P3AT .380 and just blasting the connector.

The second difference is that the Freeway Blaster horn is larger that the OEM horn. I held the Fiamm supplied bracket up to the bike mounting spot and noted that it was too short. Then I noticed the bracket on the OEM still attached to it. So, I removed the OEM bracket from the OEM horn and held it up with the Fiamm Horn to the V-Star. The bracket went the wrong way and the horn would not fit properly. I scratched my head, flipped the OEM bracket upside down and held the Fiamm horn back up to the bike. It looked like it would work.

I attached the OEM horn bracket upside down on the Freeway Blaster. Then I attached it to the bike, bending the bracket slightly to position it correctly. I hooked up the electrical connectors I previously had set free to the new horn. I turned the key on and hit the horn button. Now it sounded like a real horn with a much deeper sound. It was not supper loud, but was definitely louder than the OEM. You can hear a sound clip at the Fiamm website here.

I noticed that the Fiamm horn protrudes out farther than the OEM. I had read of people installing horns on motorcycles and not allowing for the fender travel. This would lead to the fender hitting the horn and damaging the paint or fender. So, as a precaution, I made one more modification to the Freeway Blaster. I took a hacksaw to the front plastic portion of the horn that sticks out and lopped it off. Now I was done.

As far as a review the Fiamm Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn works as advertised. I’ve had it on for a year now and works when called upon. Eventually I want to also install an air horn on my Mistress. Torch gives the Fiamm Freeway Blaster a MMM rating of 8 on a scale of 1-10.

Ride on,
Torch

My Mistress

My Mistress is my motorcycle. It was time to take stock of what all this bike had on her. I believe that I am the third owner and the previous owners had really decked her out. It was a 2003 Yamaha Star V-Star 1100 Classic with 26,000 miles on it. Although a Classic model, She looked more like a Silverado because of all the accessories. Every time I looked at it I discovered something new. I had been keeping a running tally of all the accessories for quite some time and here is the list as best as I can discern, not in any particular order:

SS Customs Mid Range 420 Cam Kit (includes: Chubby Air Kit, Needles, and Jets)

Jardine Chrome Oil Filter Relocation Kit

Progressive Front Fork Springs

Progressive Rear Suspension Spring

Corbin Dual Touring Seat with Front & Rear Removable Backrests

Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control

Kuryakyn Hypercharger for V-Star 1100 (vacuum is hooked up, but just for looks)

Kuryakyn ISO Grips

Kewl Metal Kewlock Grip End Helmet Locks

Star Motorcycles Floorboards with Heel & Toe Shifter

Kuryakyn Chrome Floorboard Covers

Star Motorcycles Billet Brake Brake Pedal Cover

Star Motorcycles Rear Luggage Rack

Barons Customs Sport Board Adjustable Passenger Floorboards

Star Motorcycles front Light Bar

Star Motorcycles Headlamp, Front Passing, and Front and Rear Turn Signal Visors

Clear Alternatives Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses & Amber Bulbs

Clear Alternatives Smoke Rear Turn Signal Lenses

Radiantz LED Rear Turn Signal Conversion Kit

Kuryakyn 7" Halogen Headlight Wave Cut Tri-bar with Black Dot

Kuryakyn Chrome Brake Master Cylinder Cap

Chrome Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir Cover

Kuryakyn Magnum Plus Mirrors

Kuryakyn Billet Chrome State Inspection Plate

Cobra Speedster Longs Exhaust

Memphis Shades Windshield

Memphis Shades Lowers

Laminar Lip on Windshield

Leather Three Pocket Windshield Bag With Braiding

Star Motorcycles Front Fender Trim Bumper

Custom Classic Hard Leather Bolt On Saddle Bags with Braid & Pocket

Easy Brackets Saddle Bag Quick Detachable Brackets.

Kuryakyn Chrome Neck Covers

Clocks 4 Bikes Chrome Handlebar Clock, Original Mount with White Faceplate

Clocks 4 Bikes Chrome Handlebar Thermometer, Original Mount with White Faceplate

Kuryakyn Chrome Mid-Frame Cover

Kuryakyn Lighted License Plate Frame

Kuryakyn Chrome Boomerang Frame Trim

Kuryakyn Chrome Handlebar Control Covers

Show Chrome Celestar Rear Brake Master Cylinder Cover

Kuryakyn Phantom Swingarm Chrome Cover

Avon Venom-R Tyres

Here is the list of things I have added or upgraded since I purchased her:

Replaced the OEM horn with a Black Fiamm Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn

Binetto YTX14-BS High Performance AGM ATV/Motorcycle Battery

Stebel Nautilus Compact Chrome Air Horn

Kuryakyn X-Tension Pegs

Replaced front Avon Venom-R Tyre with Metzler ME 880 Marathon

Replaced worn/missing Star Motorcycle Billet Brake Pedal Cover Rubber Inserts

Replaced one Cobra Dragster Long Exhaust tip, lost while riding

Battery Tender Connector to battery for Battery Tender Jr.

I will be writing reviews and stories of these projects and upgrades in the future. I will also be reviewing the riding gear I have picked up and used along the way.

Ride on,

Torch